Costume Design Sub-commission

2013 Costume Design Group Meeting Minutes in Cardiff, UK

Oct 22, 2013

Download the meeting minutes in PDF here.

On 11th September 2013, at 4:30 PM, Lise Klitten, head of the OISTAT Costume Design Group called to order the official business meeting, held in Cardiff, Wales, during the World Stage Design 2013.

Forty-two members were present:
Alexandra Bonds (USA)
Anna Sinkkonen (Finland)
Bea Gola
Canan Goknil (Turkey)
Carmela Wager (Finland)
Chrisi Karvonides (USA)
Donatella Barbieri (United Kingdom)
Emily Collett (Australia)
Emma Cope (United Kingdom)
Gini Vogel (USA)
Graham Cottenden (United Kingdom)
Hana Amer (Egypt)
Helene Markstein (Australia)
Igor Roussanoff (USA/Russia)
Illka Louw (South Africa)
Jara Preková (Czech Republic)
Jerome Maeckelbergh (Belgium)
Kazue Hatano (Japan)
Kiritin Norath (LaoP.DR)
Laura Crow (USA)
Lauren Raymond (United Kingdom)
Lillian Chester (Australia)
Lise Klitten (Denmark)
Margaret Mitchell (USA)
Marie Jirásková (Czech Republic)
Marina Raytalinova (Bulgaria)
Marja Uusitalo (Finland)
Marni Balint
Matteo Augello (Italy)
Meredith Paysinger Hart
Merja Váisánen (Finland)
Mira Kalanova (Bulgaria)
Nic Ularu (Romania / USA)
Octovina Matulessy (Netherlands)
Pirjo Liiri-Majava (Finland)
Rosane Muniz (Brazil)
Satoko Shidahara (Czech Republic)
Simona Rybáková (Czech Republic)
Sofia Pantouvaki (Greece / Finland)
Takis (Greece / United Kingdom)
Tina Kitzing (Germany)
Vera Katharina DuBose (Denmark)

Lise Klitten announced the change in name from “Costume Working Group” to “Costume Design Group”. The change of name is meant to include all people related to the creation and production of costume, its design, the making and the technicians within the field. It is hoped that the change in name will bring more respect to the field. The group continues to seek collaboration with other commissions encouraging an exchange of scholarly ideas and approaches, involvement students in varying papers and presentations.

Laura Crow stated that the group, when originally formed, had held the name of the Costume Design Group. Lise Klitten went on to state that this name change now brings us onto even ground with the lighting and sound groups. 

Conversations regarding a search for a CDG logo were addressed in hopes of creating a stronger identity, image and letterhead for the group as its members continue to seek funding opportunities. Previous suggestions of keywords included: creativity, respect, confidence and joy. Nic Ularu volunteered to coordinate the efforts and democratic voting procedure for its members online. Chrisi Karvonides offered her students to help on the organization. Nic Ularu also stated that he realized that this would require coordination with other groups in the OISTAT organization. It is hoped that submissions can be received by 30th November 2013 and that an online voting process may occur from 1st to 5th December 2013. It was a unanimous vote of confidence given to this process to be led by Nic Ularu.

Rosane Muniz revealed the new CDG pages on the newly redesigned OISTAT website http://www.oistat.org with:
- CDG Mission / About Meetings / List of Last Meetings
In the list of past meeting date and sites, it was decided to include and highlight the timing and purpose of meetings.

- CDG Members (/Item/list.asp?id=1248)
Website CDG organizational contacts are also provided on the homepage.

Graham Cottenden ask questions regarding membership, i.e. those who do not wish their names to be published, updating active membership, and the issue of members who do not feel included if they are perchance overlooked in some process of posting or frequency of attendance. Lise Klitten felt this would require a wider discussion with the President of OISTAT, Louis Janssen, about the general policy of regarding publishing names. 

There is a list of members since the creation of the group, but it needs to be updated. The CDG are planning an action of consulting everybody to know who still want to be part of the group, and if they want or not their contacts published.

It should be noted that Margaret Mitchell (USA) continues to offer her services for translations and proofreading for grants or proposals for those whose first language or native language is not English.

- CDG Annual Meetings 
All the CDG meetings' minutes will be displayed on the website.

- CDG Photo Gallery 
The gallery section exhibits work of its members. Another call for submissions of work will be forthcoming.

Sofia Pantouvaki discussed the planning of meetings for the CDG. A list of other commissions invited, invited speakers and keynote speakers should be included in the submission for hosting a proposal for symposium. The theme of the symposium, a call and the process for the submission of papers should be included in the proposal and its dateline. Also included should be proposals, for example, for the inclusion of a roundtable, a 20 x 20 presentation, quality exhibition, workshop, backstage or studio tours, a book launch and a certificate of attendance.

A working group is working on the development of these guidelines for the membership.

It was mentioned that many who might be willing to host a meeting face various funding challenges where as other countries that are supported by governmental cultural commissions on the arts might have an easier time of obtaining some level of funding. The burden of such an extensive list of expectations and demands then rests entirely on the individual who is proposing a meeting.

On 2015, should happen an election for a new Costume Design Group Head. Lise Klitten suggested electing a co-head at that time who would then work into rotation and then into the position as head of the CDG. The same as it was made in the last election.

Updates from the recent meeting of the OISTAT Performance Design held in Shanghai, China were shared with the group: the presentations of papers, visits to archives and universities.

Also shared with the group was information about the meeting in Vigan, Philippines, where the World Costume Festival 2013 was held in April. Visual images from the first prize, gold-medal winner from Indonesia designed by Afif Ghurub Bestari expressing the cultural diversity of Indonesia using ethnic crafts, music, traditional dance choreography with Indonesian flora and fauna. The second prize was awarded to Japan and the two young Japanese women who have started their own business under the name Heterogeneous Dada. The third prize is an entry from the Philippines, the zebra striped convertible flamenco inspired gown. Members of the jury included Lise Klitten, Laura Crow and Nic Ularu.

- Costume Design Exhibition - Bakhrushin Central Theatre Museum, Moscow, Russia
Igor Roussanoff discussed the opportunity for a Costume Design Exhibition to be held at the Bakhrushin Central Theatre Museum, Moscow, Russia. Igor stated that the exhibition would focus on original costume renderings that he would curate. It is expected to be a world retrospective of significant costume renderings over the past 20 years. In order to approach the duration process he requested that digital images be sent as a submission. Please send submissions to Igor. Deadline for submission is expected to be March 2014. In the event that there is a massive response to this call, which will go out again prior to March addressing specific issues, Igor will be selecting a jury for the first round of consideration. This may be an opportunity for graduate student to do an internship. Igor and the Museum Director will select a maximum of 60 images for the exhibition. At the point of selection, information will be sent regarding resolution of the images, printing of the images and full/correct documentation.
The date has yet to be finalized; it may be prior to the PQ of 2015 or directly after the PQ of 2015. By ensuring its relationship to the PQ of 2015, it will help lessen the cost of travel and cost of living in Russia.
Donatella Barbieri requested that the official call for exhibition specify size of the image for each juried level, number of images from one production, contractual obligations with the Museum, specifically in relationship to how the images are to be reproduced and used.

- Laura Crow’s website project
Laura Crow announced that her latest project supported by USITT could be located at the address http://fadma.uconn.edu. This database is still a work in progress. She asked that if you find an error to please email her (laura.crow.usa@gmail.com) and inform her of the discrepancy.

- 'Costume Working Group' Website
Laura Crow contributed that the historical Costume Working Group site was still fully functional. The address is http://costumes.uconn.edu/index.htm. There is information on this site regarding previous events, photos and activities as well as a database research component created by the University of Connecticut. Contacts in minutes from previous meetings are also archived at this location.
Donatella Barbier requested old members be removed from the pages.
The CDG website group announced that they are working on this first website and organizing the information's on the new OISTAT's website. Volunteers to help on it are welcome.

- Rosane Muniz’s website project
Rosane Muniz announced her website project, "Vestindo a Cena" (Wearing the scene), its address is www.vestindoacena.com. A place to share costume analysis, researchers, talking about exhibitions, performances around the world, lectures, events, publications and shows. All related with the elements that wear the scene (light, sound, set and costume design). It is only in portuguese by now, but everybody is invited to collaborate.

- Donatella Barbieri’s website project
Donatella Barbieri also presented her website project, "Encounters In The Archive", its address is www.encountersinthearchive.com. The encounters provides links for research and is open to all.

- April 2nd - 9th, 2014 - Brussels, Bedra, Antwerp (Belgium)
Tina Matulessy and Jerome Maeckelbergh announced the invitation and the program for next meeting to be held in Antwerp, Brussels and Breda, in Belgium. The dates were firmed after the meeting and included in these minutes. The proposed program will be send to members and put on the website. Highlights include: a visit to the MOde MUseum in Antwerp, a visit to the Breda Museum, a studio visit with Isabelle de Borchgrave, a symposium based on conservation and restoration of textil on costume, a visit to the custom workshop at Brussels’ opera house La Monnaie and a visit to the Museum of arts in History in Brussels to view the collection of Chinese opera and Japanese Noh theater costume. The date April 2nd - 9th, 2014 includes the arrival / departure days.

- August 9th -16th, 2014 - São Paulo (Brazil)
Rosane Muniz confirmed the proposal for the meetings at Brazil. The theme presented is: E-Scapes - The exploration of escaping traditional boundaries of Performance and its Design. This meeting will be held in conjunction with the Performance Design Commission, the Research Commission and the Education Commission. Programming and timing is still in the final preparation stages and it is imperative that this event be held after World Cup. The official call and deadlines will be forthcoming. The membership was encouraged to plan ahead in order to obtain the appropriate visa. Is also being organized an excursion to Rio de Janeiro, from 16th to 18th, with costume archive and tour visits. The date August 9th -16th, 2014 includes the arrival / departure days.

- June, 2015 - Prague (Czech Republic)
The meeting will be in conjunction with PQ 2015, in Prague, Czech Republic. The theme for the upcoming quadrennial is: SharedSpace, Music, Weather, Politics. The call for workshops and papers will be forthcoming.

- June-July, 2015 - Moscow (Russia)
Igor Roussanov presented the project of the exhibition "Costume at the turn of the century", that will happen in the State Central Theater Museum. More of his explanations will come in a specific e-mail.

- 2015 - Sibiu (Romania)
Nic Ularu also discussed the possibility of CDG participation in the World Costume Festival 2016 to be held in conjunction with the Romanian Theater Festival. He suggested Sibiu could be a possible location in June 2016 with a symposium, street parades and an exhibition.

- 2016 - Philippines
Rollie de Leon has also suggested a meeting in the Philippines for 2016.

Alexandra Bonds also suggested that we become much more aware of the World Wearable Art competition held in Wellington, New Zealand. Graham Cottenden wanted to emphasize its students were able to apply to this competition for several years, juried into the competition and two students have been recently shortlisted. There is prize money from this competition.

Alexandra Bonds also wanted to remind us the change in individual membership options with OISTAT if one lives in a country where there is not an official center. Membership can be attained for 1/10 the rate of a center.

Due to lack of time, the meeting was adjourned.

Respectfully submitted,
Virginia Vogel, secretary
Cooperators: Lise Klitten, Margaret Mitchell, Rosane Muniz and Sofia Pantouvaki